Middle Wilderness – Magic Forest

Middle Wilderness – Magic Forest

Magic Forest is the heart of what is referred to as Middle Wilderness which also includes Eagles Nest and The Dog Park (which is currently undocumented). Magic Forest is located on the hillside directly below and just south of the largest granite dome in the Wilderness of Rocks valley.  The first boulders you will come to are about 15 minutes past the Wilderness of Rocks Entrance Boulders so the total approach is somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes for most people.  That being said, Magic Forest hosts one of the highest concentration of quality problems on the mountain and is within day hiking distance of the parking lot for most people. The dedicated (or obsessed) can even make it out for a quick projecting session on summer evenings.

Magic Forest is most important for the V4 to V8 grade range. The best problems in this range are H*llb*tch (Established by Rocks and Ropes General Manager Luke Bertelsen and herein referred to as HB), Black Magic (FA Aaron Mike), and All Systems Go (FA Unknown FKA Cory Hanson although the left exit of this climb is in the McMillan Guidebook). These climbs are listed hardest to easiest and (conveniently) safest to most dangerous. Those looking to blast off on All Systems Go should be prepared to protect a steep slab landing that slides you down onto somewhat uneven ground…reasonably protect-able with 2 pads and a spotter but 3 pads are recommended. Black Magic is spicy simply because it is tall, however, it eases up as you get high. HB is a reasonable height and the landing is flat but for a small rock jutting out of the earth where it would seem you could land, however, I have never seen or heard of anyone having an issue with it.

Surrounding these classics are many more quality lines in the same grade range including but not limited to: Nanomachine, Healing Words, Mind the Gap (Seriously, mind the gap), Ramada Suites, MF’er, Heignar, Psycho Mantis, Tesla, and Tower Defense (for the slab lovers). Finally, Magic Forest hosts a couple established harder lines including the offensively named We Rent B*tches (V9 or 10) and the more reverently dubbed Heavenly Father (hard V8 or maybe V9).

For those looking for some easier terrain, Magic Forest is a little thinner but not to be discounted. Additionally, there are many easier lines out there still looking for FA’s and SA’s. Quality rankings in this grade range are not settled and many sit at the ambiguous 2 star spot waiting for input from future ascensionists toward more or less enjoyable. That being said, the Been Found Boulder hosts SIX V1(ish) lines that are all tall, proud, and reasonably safe. Mind’s Eye, We Don’t Rent Pigs,Slabble, and Spank Through are all very worthy V3’s.

Magic Forest has many lines yet undone all over the grade spectrum. The hike is just far enough that many decent to good looking easy and moderates have been walked past by those looking for a harder project or simply didn’t feel like spending energy cleaning just hiking up to the line. The Chasms Cluster,The Limbo Project, and are perfect examples of simply out of the way lines that will be decent.

The real prizes remaining are of course in the upper grade ranges. The best known projects include the White Magic Project, the Quarse Project, the Magic Roof Project, the Huggable Project the Alligator Arete Project, the first three listed lines on the CoryDoor Boulder, multiple lines on the Slabble Boulder (the best of which will likely be the Slabble Arete Project), the Sultan Project, and the Naptime Project .  The king line in the area will definitely be the On Fleek Project which will likely clock in near the limit of human ability.

Magic Forest is a great spot for those looking to work in the upper single digit range and it is bound to become even more so as these projects go down. Go out there and get some! …while staying safe and being conscientious of the sky island ecosystem you are enjoying.

Sorry, comments are closed for this post.